Alexandria’s ancient library was one of the greatest of all classical institutions, and while replacing it might seem a Herculean task, the new Bibliotheca Alexandrina manages it with aplomb. Opened in 2002, this impressive piece of modern architecture is a deliberate attempt to rekindle the brilliance of the original centre of learning and culture. The complex has become one of Egypt’s major cultural venues and a stage for numerous international performers.
The building takes the form of a gigantic angled discus embedded in the ground, evoking a second sun rising out of the Mediterranean. The granite exterior walls are carved with letters, pictograms, hieroglyphs and symbols from more than 120 different human scripts. Inside, the jaw-dropping main reading room can accommodate eight million books and 2500 readers under its sloping roof, with windows specially designed to let sunlight flood in but keep out rays that might harm the collection.
In addition to the main reading room, the library boasts a huge array of diversions: three permanent museums, four specialised libraries, a planetarium, a conference centre, temporary and permanent exhibitions, and a full schedule of events. To fully explore this very worthy attraction, you should allot half a day, though to gape at the astounding main reading room and do a tour, you’ll need an hour or so.
The Manuscript Museum contains ancient texts, antiquarian books and maps, including a copy of the only surviving scroll from the ancient library. The Antiquities Museum holds some overspill from the Graeco-Roman Museum, including a fine Roman mosaic of a dog that was discovered when the foundations of the library were dug. The History of Science Museum underneath the Planetarium is targeted at children of school age.
The four specialised libraries are a children’s library for ages six to 11; a youth library for ages 11 to 17; a multimedia library; and a library for the blind.
Regular exhibitions include Impressions of Alexandria , which does a sterling job of tracing the city’s long history through drawings, maps and early photographs. There’s also a video program on Egyptian history called the Culturama, displayed on nine screens, and, most recently added, an exhibition on Anwar Sadat.
The Planetarium is a futuristic neon-lit sphere looming on the plaza in front of the library, like a mini Death Star from Star Wars. It shows 3-D films hourly on a rotating schedule (see library website), and has an Exploratorium as well as the History of Science Museum, which are both great for kids.
Tickets to the library can be bought outside the main entrance, where all bags must be checked. The basic E£10 ticket includes free guided tours, entrance to the main reading room and any free exhibits or events. Hi-tech PDA (personal digital assistant) guides are also available in English, Arabic and French.
A combined ticket including the Antiquities and Manuscript Museums, but not the Planetarium, is E£45. You can also buy tickets to each of these individually at their respective ticket offices.
Note that while the library has a wide range of kid-friendly activities and diversions, little ones under the age of six are not admitted to the library complex. Helpfully, day care is available from 11am to 4pm daily except Friday and Saturday. The library is right on the Corniche, and you can easily get there by taxi or microbus.
